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Category: E6

South Coast - La Congrelle - La Congrelle
28m (92ft)

Victor

Eliminate, but with some great climbing. Climb Eels on Wheels to the optional stance at 6 metres. From the right hand end of the ledge, climb a short black rib and swing right (Friend 1.5, peg).

South Coast - La Congrelle - La Congrelle
35m (115ft)

King Conger

A tremendous climb taking a fairly direct line up the landward end of the big and black west wall. Sustained with the hardest moves away from gear — yikes! Start at lowish tide below an obvious vertical crack which commences at 9 metres.

South Coast - La Corbiere - Corbiere Stack
18m (59ft)

Corbomight

Thin technical face climbing on the immaculate pink wall left of the seaward arête. Despite two good wire-slots, big-fall potential remains high. Climb centrally or from the right to meet a left-trending line of finger-jugs at 6 metres.

South Coast - Petit Bôt Area - The Portelet Pinnacles
23m (75ft)

Portuguese Man o’War

An awesome central line, and one of the hardest routes on the island. Start as for Penial Servitude. Climb up via a small groove to a line of jugs at 7 metres. Step right and place good wires in a diagonal break just above.

South Coast - Icart Point - Gruesome Twosome Area
10m (33ft)

Le God

An unprotected arête above a boulder-strewn landing; this is the curving arête right of the ‘Gruesome Twins’. The grade assumes the absence of bouldering mats. A powerful opening move from an undercut is the toughest move on the route.

West Coast - La Guet
10m (33ft)

Bored of Administration

Dumbfounding moves in a cool position. Abseil into a semi hanging stance on a sloping ledge under the right hand end of the horizontal crack under the headwall. Traverse intricately left along the crack.

South Coast - Pleinmont Point Area - Main Wall
30m (98ft)

Los Houligans

A chart topping route on one of the finest pieces of rock on Guernsey. Sustained in the extreme, forearm burning, and with spaced gear to add to your problems. Start below the centre of the leaning grey face of the main wall.

South Coast - La Congrelle - Gull Zawn
25m (82ft)

A Guernsey Double

Steep climbing with good protection but strenuous to place. 10 feet right of the start of Valediction, Trail of Deception etc. is an arête, around this the territory becomes steeply overhanging.

South Coast - La Congrelle - Gull Zawn
28m (92ft)

The Gneiss Girls

A profoundly exacting route that takes an intricate line up the bare wall left of Gneiss Gorilla. Total commitment obligatory.

South Coast - La Congrelle - Mole Wall
28m (92ft)

Molotov

A brave assault on an intimidating wall. Strenuous and sustained but, after a committing start reasonably protected. Start in the centre of the wall at the only line of weakness; a short thin flake crack.

South Coast - La Congrelle - La Congrelle
20m (66ft)

The Christian

Distressingly under-protected though not that hard for the grade. Follow Born a Believer to its small roof; and swing right to a semi-rest on a rib.