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South Coast - Le Bigard Main Cliff

Routes on this crag

Brief Encounter 15m (49ft)

Start 10 feet right of the corner of Quick Retreat (please see route description under La Corbiere to Le Bigard – Corbiere Slab). Gain a good jug…

Virgo  28m (92ft)

Climb the overhanging black layer just left of the arête base. Continue up a slab, moving left to finish up the left of the two corners.

Easy Groove  25m (82ft)

Climb the corner to the right, finishing up the groove on the left. Poor.

Offshore Trades 25m (82ft)

The gap between Easy Groove and Blitz.

Blitz 26m (85ft)

Climb the broken corner 15 feet to the right, then over a short curving crack (probably vegetated). Move up and slightly right over a thin wall, passing…

Jericho Jazz 28m (92ft)

Start 20 feet to the right, by a stream of vivid in situ green slime! Pass the overhang at 20 feet on the right, climb slightly left…

Le Chien Bodu 37m (121ft)

A fine route with some thin protection and a bit of a bite. Start just right of Jericho Jazz. Climb direct up the pink wall to and…

Crown of Thorns 30m (98ft)

A superb line, exposed and continuously interesting, with protection almost entirely on wires. Start 25 feet to the right below a large bulge. Near its left hand…

Boogie to Bethlehem 40m (131ft)

An excellent traverse of the Crown of Thorns wall. Climb the overhanging start of Crown of Thorns, then move up a slightly right to the right hand…

Autumn Madness 28m (92ft)

Start 20 feet to the right. Climb to the scar in the overhang, hand traverse left 15 feet to a ledge. Climb the wall above to a…

Indian Summer 26m (85ft)

Start as for Autumn Madness. Climb to the scar then gain a leftward trending crack. Follow this for 15 feet, then move up and right across the…

Botany Bay  40m (131ft)

The black vegetated rightward trending layer. The pits.

Lefthand Crack  

The left hand crack.

Fly Paper 14m (46ft)

Start at the foot of Lefthand Crack, then climb directly up the unprotected slab.

Centre Crack

The centre crack.

Righthand Crack  

The right hand crack.

Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing 40m (131ft)

Start 15 feet left of Cato, at an overhanging scoop. Climb this to a sloping ledge, then move up and right to a ledge below a smooth…

Cato  30m (98ft)

1 – 55 feet, 5a. Climb the corner to a black overhang. Pull over this, then climb an overlap to a horizontal break. 2 – 50 feet,…

Chicken Run  35m (115ft)

1 – 50 feet, 5c. To the right is a small slab below an overlap. Climb the slab, move over the overlap to a poor peg runner.…

Fracture  38m (125ft)

1 – 45 feet, 4b. Start just right of the scoop. Climb a short corner, then easily to an overhang. Climb the leftward trending groove from the…

Spare Rib  50m (164ft)

A wandering route, with interest. 1 – 85 feet, 4c. Start at the foot of the arête at the left hand end of the overhang below the…

Straw Dogs 38m (125ft)

Climb intermittent cracks between Spare Rib (direct start alternative) and the arête of The Lynx (crux). Gain the ramp of The Lynx, move left 4 feet and…

The Lynx  55m (180ft)

A brilliant and varied line. 1 – 90 feet, 5a. Start as for Spare Rib. Climb the arête and crack to a small overhang at 45 feet.…

Floating Rib a.k.a. The Pink Panther  40m (131ft)

A fine route, one of the first on the island: a classic. It is commonly called The Pink Panther. 1 — (30m), 4c. Climb to the small…

Incision 40m (131ft)

5 aid points. Climb the bulge between Floating Rib a.k.a The Pink Panther and Partners in Crime using 3 peg aids and 2 nuts for aid. Make…

Clouseau 41m (135ft)

Excellent slab climbing. Climb Floating Rib a.k.a. The Pink Panther for 15 feet. Move right over an overlap and a lichenous wall to gain flakes. Climb directly…

Partners in Crime 41m (135ft)

Near the right hand end of the main overhang is a step feature below a bulge. Gain the sloping step with great difficulty (peg runners), then climb…

9-9-9  37m (121ft)

1 — (18m), 4b. Just to the right is a broken looking corner. Gain this with difficulty and follow for a few feet. Move left to the…

Harelip  35m (115ft)

1 — (18m), 4c. Climb up just to the right around grey streaked bulges (crux) then up a short wall to the ledge. 2 — (17m), 4a.…

6-6-6  38m (125ft)

1 — (23m), 5a. Start down and to the right on the black ledge above the gully. Climb the deceptive rightward facing corner to the bulge right…

Pink Pussy  18m (59ft)

A tasty little pitch crossing the main slab from the belay ledge of 9-9-9. Follow rising ledges and flakes to the large corner.

Morendo Wall 37m (121ft)

Start on the black ledge on the left hand side of the gully. Gain the short steep slab, then move rightward to the edge. Follow the crack…

Mortally Wounded 45m (148ft)

A long and tiring lead — ever more so if you don’t guard against rope drag. Take a big rack. Start from a ledge in the left…

The Blowhole  30m (98ft)

Chimney up the cave at the back of the gully to the right, to emerge on a grassy ramp. An interesting route with a potholing flavour.

Blowout 37m (121ft)

Start up and right of the gully of The Blowhole below overhangs. Climb the flakey rock that forms the outside of The Blowhole to gain a ledge.…

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