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Pleinmont Point Area

Pleinmont Point Area

How do I get there?

Carpark location

Carpark location

After parking by the german observation tower, walk across the road and down the long field to the cliff path. Turn left and follow the path to a small spoil heap. Head down across the coupee, scramble down rightwards, then around left to the back of the cliff until main cliff comes into view. Topos are from left to right.

 

 

 

Below are links to topos of the climbs at Main Wall:

Topo A

Topo A

Topo B

Topo B

Topo C

Topo C

Topo D

Topo D

Routes on this crag

Asylum 18m (59ft)

Half way down the descent a ledge leads left towards the coupee. Scramble along this to an obvious corner. Climb this.

White Shadow  30m (98ft)

Climb the rib right of the easy crack, finishing left of the roof.

Iconoclast 30m (98ft)

Climb up parallel to White Shadow, then through a bulge to the roof. Climb this at its widest point to a ledge. Contrived, but good fun.

Malice Afterthought 30m (98ft)

Start just to the right. Climb a rib to the overhanging scoop at 50 feet. Traverse left 12 feet above the orange streaks, the move up to…

Flamingo Groove 20m (66ft)

Start right of the arête at the right hand end of the undercut base. Follow the sharp leftward trending edge to a ramp. Climb a groove 10…

Sucks You In 20m (66ft)

The seaward arête of the main wall. Well positioned above the broiling Atlantic; committing, and with a difficult to protect start. Start at the extreme left end…

Alex’s Concept 30m (98ft)

A very direct line left of centre of Los Houligans wall; start below the right end of the (invisible) hanging slab of Dead Man’s Finger (as for…

Neck’n Neck 25m (82ft)

This is the slabby arête separating the walls of Flamingo Groove and Dead Man’s Finger. Serious. Make balancy moves up the arête (knob spike on the right)…

Dead Man’s Finger 30m (98ft)

Gain the small slab below the face to the right. Move right 15 feet then up to a ledge (peg runner). Move back left 12 feet, up…

Heavy Petting 30m (98ft)

Fine and absorbing, yet serious, climbing – at the top of the grade – up the centre of the slabby wall right of the Neck’n Neck arête.…

Arthur’s Retreat 30m (98ft)

Quite sustained, but at least the protection is good. Start 30 feet to the right below a curving overhang. Climb up left of this via layaways, move…

An Outbreak of Common Sense 12m (39ft)

The short but steep and pumpy arête near the right hand end of the main face. Care is required with the rock. Climb a flaky groove in…

Los Houligans 30m (98ft)

A chart topping route on one of the finest pieces of rock on Guernsey. Sustained in the extreme, forearm burning, and with spaced gear to add to…

Los Houligans 30m (98ft)

A sustained zig zag line up the wall. A rock 2 or 3 was pre-placed on the diagonal leftward moves. Start as for Dead Man’s Finger. Climb…

Ziggurat 21m (69ft)

An excellent route on perfect rock. The crux is well protected, though the rest is not. Start just right of Flamingo Groove. Climb a bulge over a…

Suspended Sentence 30m (98ft)

A strenuous and committing finish. A fall from the crux will leave you hanging. Climb the easy arête just to the right to the scoop. Finish up…

Crime Wave 30m (98ft)

Start 30 feet to the right where a pink streaked prow protrudes. Climb up to a niche below the prow. Gain and follow the crack on its…

Puppet on a String 30m (98ft)

Start 15 feet to the right. Follow a right ward trending crack to a ledge. Climb left ward to the overhang of Iconoclast , avoid on the…

UK Climbing details for Main Wall

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