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South Coast - Jerbourg Point The Pea Stacks

Routes on this crag

Sea Squirt  

The first crack.

Solitude  

The second crack.

Solstice  

The third crack.

Acteon 12m (39ft)

6 feet left of Solstice is an obvious roof crack above a grey slab. Climb the roof, starting directly below it.

Kittiwake  12m (39ft)

6 feet to the left is a corner, just right of a small cave. Climb the corner for 10 feet, then move right using a big jug.…

Goby  14m (46ft)

Climb the wide crack above the small cave, then the leftward trending overlap above.

Shanny  14m (46ft)

Start 15 feet left of the cave. Climb to the left of the large boss of rock, then leftward up a short slab. Finish up the right…

Brittlestar 14m (46ft)

Start 20 feet to the left, from a higher ledge. Climb the crack system to the skyline knob. Move right of this to finish.

Pebble Mill 15m (49ft)

To the left is an arête. Climb up just right of this.

Snakelocks 14m (46ft)

The obvious corner to the left.

Beatle’s Last Stand 17m (56ft)

Start 10 feet left of the arête by the entrance to a gully. Climb a short corner, then the overhanging crack that continues above.

Wings That Put Stump Into Flight 10m (33ft)

The overhanging crack 10 feet left of Beatle’s Last Stand.

Megrim  10m (33ft)

The grey undercut gully to the left. Abysmal.

The Weever  15m (49ft)

Start 6 feet left of the gully entrance. Climb the crack to a ledge at 20 feet, then continue up the crack left of pink streak.

Glasnost 17m (56ft)

Start as for The Weever. Move 6 feet across the wall to a short crack. Move up to this, then go slightly leftward to gain a large…

Girls That Grow Plump In The Night 17m (56ft)

Start 20 feet to the left. Climb a short corner, then gain and follow twin cracks above an overhung niche.

Hoedown  11m (36ft)

15 feet to the left a detached flake has formed a short chimney.

Technicolour Nightmare  14m (46ft)

20 feet right of the chockstone which marks the start of Headloss is a narrow chimney.

Headloss 15m (49ft)

Climb the wall above the chockstone.

Down On The Breadline  28m (92ft)

Start at the left hand end of the rock pool beyond the chockstone. Follow the groove system rightward.

Micromaniac 28m (92ft)

A good route, though with marginal protection. Start as for Down On The Breadline. Climb up to a small ledge at 15 feet, then continue up to…

Antipedes  28m (92ft)

Start from the leftmost jammed boulder. Climb the corner system above this, then finish up the right of the two corners on the summit block.

Taurus 30m (98ft)

Start as for Antipedes. Trend up and right to the arête, and follow this to its top. Move right to climb the blunt arête right of the…

Equinox  30m (98ft)

Start down and to the left. Climb the obvious corner on good jugs. Finish up the left of the two corners in the summit block (slightly harder).

The Heat Of The Night 14m (46ft)

Start at the right hand end of the cliff. Climb to a crack and traverse along this, then up and left to a short corner.

Driftwood On The Sands Of Time 12m (39ft)

A good route climbing the corner to the left. A fine exercise in bridging and laybacking.

Yellow Brick Rhode 12m (39ft)

Climbs the black face between Driftwood On The Sands Of Time and the arête of Itsacon. Climb up and right over small overhangs at 10 feet, then…

Itsacon 11m (36ft)

The arête to the left, climbed on its seaward edge.

Trespass  11m (36ft)

The crack and corner near the left hand arête.

Brill  

Climbs the wall a few feet left of the arête.

Dog Eat Dog  

6 feet to the left and goes through a tiny overhang.

One For The Vine  

Takes the wall through the right of the two black streaks.

Vagrant  

Climbs the bulge to the left of the black streaks.

Five O’clock Shadow 17m (56ft)

At the left hand end of the wall is an arête with a hanging flake. Climb up to the flake, then traverse 12 feet right to gain…

Five O’clock Shadow ‘ Direct Finish 17m (56ft)

Continue straight up past the flake to the top.

K’tanga 14m (46ft)

Start 12 feet to the right and climb directly up to the finish of Five O’clock Shadow.

Forgotten Heroes 14m (46ft)

Start 6 feet right of K’tanga and just left of a series of step-like holds. Climb directly up to and over small quartzy flakes to the top.

Naughty Business  14m (46ft)

Climb the step-like holds just right of Forgotten Heroes and finish up a short tricky wall.

The Good  12m (39ft)

At the left hand end where there is a hole through to the water is a wide crack. Follow this on good holds, then move up and…

The Bad 14m (46ft)

Start as for The Good and traverse right for 10 feet into a corner. Follow this moving slightly left to avoid the overhanging section.

The Ugly  11m (36ft)

Start from the ledge up and to the right. Climb up and just right of the arête to finish up a short crack.

High Bender Trender  30m (98ft)

1 — (14m), 5a. Start just to the right of the right hand cave. Climb up and right to an undercling at 12 feet. Move up and…

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