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South Coast - Petit Bôt Area The Portelet Pinnacles

Routes on this crag

The Final Fling 18m (59ft)

A tremendous little route. Start at the foot of the V groove, and move left to a foothold on the arête. Climb direct through two juggy overhangs…

Humdinger  17m (56ft)

Start just to the right. Climb a short wall to the overhang, and over this on big holds.

The Alamo 17m (56ft)

Start as for Humdinger, then move slightly right to an overhang by grey streaks. Make a move right, go over the overhang and up a short wall.

Ganglian  17m (56ft)

Climb the V groove, then up and right over a short slab.

Crepuscular Slab 15m (49ft)

Start on the small weedy ledge 20 feet to the right. Swing left around the arête onto the steep slab. Climb directly up this and over the…

The Chop Block 14m (46ft)

The start near the left hand end of the west face of the seaward pinnacle. Climb to the top of a large detached block, then up the…

Schlusselstelle 23m (75ft)

A superb climb that reaches the obvious flake high left by some powerful climbing. There is adequate small-wire protection on the crux, but it may not be…

Portuguese Man o’War 23m (75ft)

An awesome central line, and one of the hardest routes on the island. Start as for Penial Servitude. Climb up via a small groove to a line…

Mistress in a Port 21m (69ft)

The impressive seaward arête of the face; bold to start. Climb the left-hand side of the arête to a short angular groove; awkward gear. Make a very…

The Scorpion 23m (75ft)

Start below the overhanging section 20 feet from the right hand end. Follow the obvious ramp leftward beneath the lichenous wall to the top of The Chop…

Penial Servitude 23m (75ft)

From the foot of the ramp climb the overhanging crack to a juggy rest at 25 feet. Climb up 6 feet then follow a thin crack rightward…

Petit Derriere 12m (39ft)

At the eastern end of the south east face (containing Right Edge) is a short, square-cut arête right of a slight boulder-filled inlet. Effectively a solo above…

Snorkel to Hand 12m (39ft)

Steep and very protectable; this is the square-cut arête on the left. Follow a thin crack to a rounded spike. Continue slightly rightwards up the crack in…

About to Drown 12m (39ft)

Follow an obvious ramp rightwards for 6 metres. Make a hard move into a short hanging corner and finish with ease.

Three Men in a Moat 15m (49ft)

A very good climb that homes in on the overhanging V-groove in the upper right hand half of the wall. Climb a thin bulging crack (often wet),…

Route One  

The groove on the left hand side of the slab.

Middle Age Spread

Start 10 feet right of Route One and take a direct line to the top.

Sotto Voce

Climb up some 10 feet left of the juggy section.

Elstub’s Wall  

The juggy wall at the right hand end.

Whinger’s Crack  12m (39ft)

Between the black rock and the back wall is a wide crack.

School Special  14m (46ft)

A pleasant line up the black groove left of the cave.

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