South Coast - Le Gouffre Area Waterfall Buttress

Climb the left hand end of the slab, just right of a vegetated groove.

The grey slab at the left hand end, climbed 10 feet from the left hand edge.

Climbs up between Grey Slab and Pingle Groove, with quite a serious move through a scar.

Climb the unlikely sloping overhang left of Cave Route; good holds after a tricky start. From the large recess above, either swing right to finish up Cave…

20 feet to the right is a groove leading to cave and overhang, which is climbed direct.

A committing eliminate up the thin crack in the right wall of Cave Route. Climb the right wall of the groove via a weak spike (thin tape)…

12 feet to the right, around the overhanging arête, is a corner crack leading through a bulge at 20 feet.

Climb the overhanging arête between Pingle Groove and Cateract, finishing up a corner.

Start at a jammed boulder just right of Pingle Groove. Climb easily to the bulge and turn this on the right. Move up past black streaks, then…

Waterfall

15 feet to the right is a corner leading to a triangular shaped overhang, which is avoided on the left. Finish direct. A pleasant route.

Start at the foot of the corner. Move up and right to the arête, and follow this. The original route, Little Sod, VS, climbed to the bulge…

Follow cracks 5 feet right of the arête, to the roof, which is climbed direct.

An intriguing climb that needs careful handling. Start as for Arms Race. Climb rightwards 3 metres and fix gear in a shallow groove just right of Arms…

True Grit

Start 12 feet down and to the right. Climb the slab to a bulge, move up and left to a large flake. Traverse left 10 feet and…

True Grit Variation

At the flake move up and right with difficulty.

A right to left traverse of the buttress. 1 — (18m), 4c. Climb True Grit to the large flake. Continue left along this and across Melange (Little…

Start as for True Grit, but continue up the slab. Regrettably short.

Climb the last rock of any note to the right, finishing left of the final triangular overhang. The start is quite hard.

Start from the notch. Climb to an overhanging prow at 20 feet. Move up and rightward 10 feet, then climb the corner on the left.

Start 15 feet down and to the right, from a small white slab. Climb directly up bulges and over a short lichenous wall to join Convalescence. Finish…

25 feet to the right is an obvious laid back corner. This may become easier when cleaned.

To the left of Gift Wrapped in Le Gouffre is a rightward arching crack. Follow this to the top.

Gift Wrapped in Le Gouffre

Superb: best taken on a high neap in the afternoon sun. Reverse down an easy groove to a juggy ledge at or near HWM (Diff). Swing left…