South Coast - Le Gouffre Area Waterfall Buttress

Le Gouffre Area

Le Gouffre Area

How do I get there?

Carpark location

Carpark location

After passing the airport heading towards Pleimont, take the first road on the left. Follow this road for a short while and when it forks in 2, take the lower left hand route. This should take you down to The Hollows restaurant where you can park as shown in the picture above.

Below are links to topos of the climbing areas at Waterfall Buttress:
Topo A shows the small crag just above waterfall buttress, Topo B is the upper section, and Topo C is the lower section.

Topo A

Topo A

Topo B

Topo B

Topo C

Topo C

Routes on this crag

Left Edge  14m (46ft)

Climb the left hand end of the slab, just right of a vegetated groove.

Grey Slab  14m (46ft)

The grey slab at the left hand end, climbed 10 feet from the left hand edge.

The Throwback 21m (69ft)

Climbs up between Grey Slab and Pingle Groove, with quite a serious move through a scar.

Hit the Bottle 18m (59ft)

Climb the unlikely sloping overhang left of Cave Route; good holds after a tricky start. From the large recess above, either swing right to finish up Cave…

Cave Route 25m (82ft)

20 feet to the right is a groove leading to cave and overhang, which is climbed direct.

Gurn Fetchingly 18m (59ft)

A committing eliminate up the thin crack in the right wall of Cave Route. Climb the right wall of the groove via a weak spike (thin tape)…

Pingle Groove 26m (85ft)

12 feet to the right, around the overhanging arête, is a corner crack leading through a bulge at 20 feet.

Fool’s Mate 26m (85ft)

Climb the overhanging arête between Pingle Groove and Cateract, finishing up a corner.

Cateract 26m (85ft)

Start at a jammed boulder just right of Pingle Groove. Climb easily to the bulge and turn this on the right. Move up past black streaks, then…

Waterfall  34m (112ft)

15 feet to the right is a corner leading to a triangular shaped overhang, which is avoided on the left. Finish direct. A pleasant route.

Melange 30m (98ft)

Start at the foot of the corner. Move up and right to the arête, and follow this. The original route, Little Sod, VS, climbed to the bulge…

Arms Race 30m (98ft)

Follow cracks 5 feet right of the arête, to the roof, which is climbed direct.

HeartRace 25m (82ft)

An intriguing climb that needs careful handling. Start as for Arms Race. Climb rightwards 3 metres and fix gear in a shallow groove just right of Arms…

True Grit 28m (92ft)

Start 12 feet down and to the right. Climb the slab to a bulge, move up and left to a large flake. Traverse left 10 feet and…

True Grit Variation 28m (92ft)

At the flake move up and right with difficulty.

Wilt  37m (121ft)

A right to left traverse of the buttress. 1 — (18m), 4c. Climb True Grit to the large flake. Continue left along this and across Melange (Little…

Subsidiary Slab  14m (46ft)

Start as for True Grit, but continue up the slab. Regrettably short.

Parting Shot  12m (39ft)

Climb the last rock of any note to the right, finishing left of the final triangular overhang. The start is quite hard.

Convalescence 14m (46ft)

Start from the notch. Climb to an overhanging prow at 20 feet. Move up and rightward 10 feet, then climb the corner on the left.

Conditional Discharge 15m (49ft)

Start 15 feet down and to the right, from a small white slab. Climb directly up bulges and over a short lichenous wall to join Convalescence. Finish…

Congenital Misfire  12m (39ft)

25 feet to the right is an obvious laid back corner. This may become easier when cleaned.

Archie   10m (33ft)

To the left of Gift Wrapped in Le Gouffre is a rightward arching crack. Follow this to the top.

Gift Wrapped in Le Gouffre 10m (33ft)

Superb: best taken on a high neap in the afternoon sun. Reverse down an easy groove to a juggy ledge at or near HWM (Diff). Swing left…