South Coast - Icart Point - Icart Chateau - Upper Goat Crag Demon Star 24m (79ft)

A superb climb, Gogarth-like, which is very sustained. It takes the line of weakness above and left of the cave and overhung corner. A large wart on a ramp that cuts across the top of the cave shows the way: hand traverse past the wart and pull into a thin groove on the left (weak in-situ thread). Resolutely attack the black wall above, climbing direct past a wobbly block to reach the left end of the overhang (which overhangs the corner on the right). Steep moves up a rib slightly left lead to a ledge and a sting-in-the-tail move on the headwall to the right.