South Coast - Herpin Rock Area - Excalibur Buttress Incensed 25m (82ft)

Very hard and bouldery, and there’s a nervy finish too. Start 5 metres left of Excalibur beneath a vertical crack. Clip a peg (removed) in the crack; then take a line of holds starting 2 metres right to gain a side hold at the top of the crack. Overpower the sustained groove (3 pegs, removed), before a long reach up to the right gains a series of improving holds leading up onto the left wall of Excalibur. Climb up and leftwards to the right end of the narrow ledge under the final slab. Swing up and right and take a blunt rib to easier ground.