South Coast - La Congrelle - La Congrelle King Conger 35m (115ft)

A tremendous climb taking a fairly direct line up the landward end of the big and black west wall. Sustained with the hardest moves away from gear — yikes! Start at lowish tide below an obvious vertical crack which commences at 9 metres. From the huge boulder on the right make a low wet traverse to a good ledge; optional stance. Move up over a bulge and vanquish the crack — which will always feel slippery — to jugs above (wire out left). Clip the peg overhead; then veer left and right above it on a handrail, rocking up boldly to better holds. Go straight up the rib past rock-spike runners; then exit left under a slanting roof to easier ground. Scramble to the grass slopes and stake belays.