Menu

Routes on this crag

Just for the Crack 6m (20ft)

To the right (looking out to sea) of the large platform at the top of Boulder Wall is a short wall. Climb the corner (hard to start)…

A Triumph for Education 30m (98ft)

A right to left traverse of the cliff with a belay above the arch of Chalcedony.

Trustin 17m (56ft)

At the left hand end of the cliff is a bulge trending from right to left. Climb this at its thinnest point by a step, then up…

Squall 21m (69ft)

Traverse up and left beneath the bulge of Trustin and break through the notch at its end. Move right onto the slab and go up this.

Kittiwake 18m (59ft)

Climb through the bulge as for Trustin, then move left for a few feet. Continue up an left to the left hand of the two grooves.

Crispin 17m (56ft)

Climb the wall at the right hand end of the bulge, then straight up to a small notch in the skyline.

Canine Holiday 17m (56ft)

Start 10 feet to the right. Climb up to a small overhang at 30 feet (peg runner), then up and slightly right on flakes (or over the…

Slowburn 14m (46ft)

Start 15 feet to the right at the left hand end of the arched overhang. Climb up to and follow a thin rightward trending crack.

Spike 14m (46ft)

An eliminate line between Chalcedony and Slowburn. Start at the right hand end of the arch. Gain and follow a leftward facing layaway edge, then move up…

Chalcedony 14m (46ft)

Start at the highest point of the arch. Surmount this and follow a thin crack rightwards through two small roofs.

Quicksilver 15m (49ft)

6 feet to the right the arch is split by a rightward trending crack. Follow and finish up the left hand side of the short wall.

Fool’s Gold 15m (49ft)

Start below the arête right of the arch. Climb a crack to a sloping nose, keep left of the arête to finish just right of Quicksilver.

Taylor’s Redemption  15m (49ft)

10 feet to the right is a groove which trends slightly left.

Space Cadet 15m (49ft)

Climb the blunt arête between Taylor’s Redemption and Streetwalker, slightly on the right hand side.

Streetwalker  17m (56ft)

Start 12 feet to the right. Climb the groove right of the blunt arête.

Streetwise  15m (49ft)

The rib just right of Streetwalker.

Freeway  17m (56ft)

The easy angled corner a few feet right of Streetwise with a small overhang at its top.

Freetime 15m (49ft)

Climb the kinked corner 8 feet right of Freeway with a hard move through a small bulge.

Brisket 17m (56ft)

The rib to the right, just left of the dark water stain. Poorly protected. The final move to the top of the descent groove is avoidable and…

Ignominous  12m (39ft)

At the front of Brisket is a small gully. Jump this to the foot of a narrow face and climb this slightly leftward.

Gear Frenzy  14m (46ft)

The twin right to left trending cracks.

Another  14m (46ft)

The seeping corner to the right.

Slab Left-hand 17m (56ft)

Near its left hand side are some jugs over a bulge. Use these to gain the slab and finish up its left hand end.

Directissima 15m (49ft)

Start as for Slab Left-hand, then take a direct line to the top.

Desolation Row 17m (56ft)

Start 8 feet to the right where there is a smooth groove. Climb the groove to a good hold on the right, then finish direct.

Calanda 15m (49ft)

Climb the steep base to the right on good holds, then climb direct to the top of the obvious diagonal crack. Finish above this.

Widdershins 15m (49ft)

Follow the crack up and left to where it closes. Move slightly right and up to finish.

Slip Slidin’ Away 8m (26ft)

Start two thirds of the way down the wide crack below an obvious overlap. Climb this and finish up the slab.

High Noon  10m (33ft)

Start down and to the right. Step across the gully at the foot of the crack to a ledge. Climb up and leftward to follow a thin…

Pronto 8m (26ft)

Start near the top of the sill towards the left hand end of the steep slab. Climb over the small overhang beneath the slab, then finish direct.…

Shenanigan 10m (33ft)

5 feet to the right is a short leftward trending crack at head height. Gain a couple of good holds above this, then finish direct. Poorly protected.

Valentino 17m (56ft)

About 15 feet to the right is an obvious layaway flake. Climb this, then go over a short blanker section to gain an obvious scarred corner. Finish…

Brinkmanship 20m (66ft)

Down and to the right is a corner which splits into two. Climb the corner, then trend up and left beneath the overhang to finish as for…

Domino Wall 28m (92ft)

Climb the corner of Brinkmanship, then take the right fork. Finish through the break in the maroon bulge.

Pianissimo 18m (59ft)

Follow the easy angled groove leftward beneath the large bulge, then break through this at an obvious crack which is difficult to gain.

Zoanthropist Groove 15m (49ft)

Start on the far side of the cliff just right of the large maroon bulge. Climb the broken looking rightward facing corner.

Sigma 12m (39ft)

10 feet to the right is a thin crack leading up the slab through a bulge.

Omicron 11m (36ft)

Climb up 6 feet to the right and finish up the edge of the rightward facing overlap.

boulder-wall