South Coast - La Prevôte Watch-Tower Les Ecrilleurs

Nermal

A recommended route. Start on the slab left of the cave. Climb up and right to a prominent prow at 15 feet. Move up and right to…

The obvious right to left crack beneath the sloping overhang and through the apex of the roof on the wall left of Nermal.

Follow the slab with an awkward move over the abyss where it peters out.

Start at the foot of the slab. Follow it for 20 feet, then climb a short bulge to gain a lichenous groove. Follow this.

Start 15 feet right of the right hand of the detached boulder where there is a green jammed boulder. Gain a small ledge on the vague arête,…

Climb the corner a few feet to the right, then follow a thin crack.

Start 15 feet to the right at the end of the gully which separates the two stacks. Climb the arête.

From the foot of the arête traverse right for 6 feet, then climb the bulging corner.

The corner a few feet right of Nonsense.

The overlap above the venus pool at the left hand end of the face.

The overlap just right of New Worlds.

Climb the wall and overlap 5 feet right again.

Start at the foot of the rightward trending crack at the right hand end of the face. Climb directly through a triangular recess.

Follow the rightward trending crack and finish up a short slab.

Climb the crack to the corner, then trend leftward along an obvious crack.

Start 10 feet down and left of the crack. Climb a small overhang to a short and steep corner, then gain the large ledge on the left.…

Climb the thin right ward trending crack up the slab to a ledge. Move 5 feet right along this, then climb direct to the top.

Climb the crack as for Fool’s Mate and at its top trend up and slightly left to a small bulge. Finish over this.

Climb the wide crack on the left by a variety of thrutching techniques.

5 feet left of the foot of the wide crack is a narrow face with thin cracks. Climb the cracks until the wall steepens, then move onto…

Below Javelin Arête is an overhang. Climb to this from the groove below, then step left into a groove with twin cracks. Climb these.

Skirmish

Climb direct up the slab and juggy wall just left of The Broken Lance.

Left of the slab of Skirmish is a rock pool. Start from a ledge above the left hand end of the pool. Climb direct up the wall…

From the left hand end of the pool follow a corner which leads to the ledge of War Machine. Step left and up into a narrow corner…

The groove 6 feet to the left and above a circular pool.

Start a few feet up and to the left by a smaller circular pool. Climb direct to a scooped out ledge and finish direct.

From the first block step onto the slab and move up to a ledge at 8 feet. Mover rightward along an overlap, then climb up just before…

Paladin

Start from the second block. Climb the steep slab by a series of small rightward facing layaway edges.

Start just left of the block and climb up just right of the arête.

The small stack opposite has an obvious crack on its landward side. Climb this and the unprotected red face direct.

Stratasfear

First free ascent of Stratasfear

Hall of Worriers

1 – 60 feet, 5b. Start from the highest point of the ledge. Move right beneath a bulge and make a committing layback to gain a small…

Hall of Worriers Direct

The original re-climbed (after rockfall) and finished direct; consistent like this and bold throughout. Start at the left-hand end of the half-height ledge. Climb strenuously up a…

Fingery and intense climbing low down. The small-wire protection is adequate (but only if you can hang around to get it in!). Start from the centre of…