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South Coast - Icart Point Dog Buttress

Icart Point Area

Icart Point Area

How do I get there?

Carpark location and western crags

Carpark location and western crags

After parking at Icart carpark (shown above), head to the bench and follow a track to the lower of two rocky knolls. Scramble down on the left side of this to get to the foot of the cliff. This crag remains dry on high neap tides

 

 

 

 

 

Below are links to topos of the climbs at Dog Buttress (Topos in progress):

Topo A

Topo A

Routes on this crag

The Nurd  25m (82ft)

Climb a stepped wall at the right hand end of the crag to a ledge, then up a vegetated groove. Poorly protected.

Colombier  25m (82ft)

Start to the left below a flat roof. Climb just left of this to a ledge, then up through a small bulge.

Doghouse Blues  23m (75ft)

15 feet to the left is a rightward trending black layer. Follow this to a ledge, then direct to a groove.

Seven Up 26m (85ft)

20 feet left is a short crack through the bulge, finish direct.

Raven Mad 26m (85ft)

Climb the notch in the bulge 10 feet to the left, finish direct.

Between Festivities 26m (85ft)

Climb one side of Raven Mad or the other, the side is unknown!

Slack Jack  26m (85ft)

Gain the arête from the left hand end of the ledge and follow.

Girouette  28m (92ft)

Climb the wall just left of the arête, through the cracked bulge.

Challenger  30m (98ft)

Start as for Girouette, trend leftward over black rock then up to a groove leading to a skyline notch.

Les Gouttes D’Eaux 37m (121ft)

An excellent but artificial line. Start at the circular rock pool. Climb direct through a bulge at 30 feet, then up the wall past a detached flake.

Shop Soiled  40m (131ft)

The groove or wall to left, then the obvious crack.

Shadowstalker  41m (135ft)

A right left girdle above the overhangs to the ledge of Shop Soiled.

Return of the Clown  28m (92ft)

Start as for Shadowstalker on the black ledge. Follow a rising traverse left ward to a big sloping ledge by the arête instead of staying low as…

UK Climbing details for Dog Buttress

Click here to view the UK Climbing page
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