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North Coast Fort Pembroke

Fort Pembroke area

Fort Pembroke area

Fort Pembroke is the small construction on the western headland of L’Ancresse bay. Climbs are on the stack north of the fort and on the slab directly below it on the western side facing La Jaonneuse bay. The climbs flood around 2.5-3 hours after low water on most tides, rough seas will reduce this. Rock quality is good although some micro-flakes on the slab can be snapped off.  No bird restrictions although Oystercatchers have nested on the stack in the past and the area should be avoided if one is incessantly flying around making a noise. There’s also plenty of bouldering in the vicinity. A good day can be had by climbing here around low tide then moving to the Bouldering circuit as the tide pushes you off. Not all routes are shown on the topos. The extra pitch to climb into the fort mentioned in the guidebook is no longer an option as the walls have been re-pointed!

How do I get there?

Carpark location

Carpark location

Take the Route Militaire and L’Ancresse road to the Chouet crossroads, at the golf course. Continue through the course, past the mirage restaurant and pembroke bay hotel to a Martello tower and parking spaces. Fort Pembroke is on the headland to the right of the bay.

 

 

 

 

Below are links to topos of the climbing areas at Fort Pembroke:

Topo A - The Stack

Topo A – The Stack

Topo B - The Slab

Topo B – The Slab

Routes on this crag

Saturday Morning Blues  8m (26ft)

At the left hand end of the crag is a short steep crack.

Yeovil  8m (26ft)

To the right there is a large ledge of half height. Gain this from the right, then up the corner.

Fish Fingers  8m (26ft)

10 feet to the right there is a leftwards leaning crack which is followed through a dark scoop.

Jack Frost  8m (26ft)

Start 7 feet to the right. Gain a small ledge below a pointed overhang, then take the leftward facing flake up the short wall.

Mr. Plod 8m (26ft)

Start just to the right. Gain a ledge at 7 feet, then up to a thin vertical crack. Move left to finish up a narrow leftward facing…

Captain Birdseye 8m (26ft)

Climb directly up the wall 5 feet to the right of Mr. Plod.

Plecko 10m (33ft)

Start down and left of Greased Whippet among the boulders and climb direct through a small ledge to finish up a small groove (crux).

Greased Whippet 10m (33ft)

At the left hand end is an incipient right ward trending crack. From the foot of the crack climb directly up the slab on flakes. Unprotected.

The Last Gasp  10m (33ft)

To the right the slab is split by a leftward trending groove.

No Ming for Tim 10m (33ft)

Start at the bottom of The Last Gasp and climb direct through triangular scoops.

Smear Test 10m (33ft)

A difficult, unprotected problem. At the foot of the groove is a small rock pool. Start just right of this, and climb up direct.

Papillion 10m (33ft)

Climb the slab just to the right of Smear Test finishing just left of the right hand of two white patches. Unprotected but with the crux low…

Lunar Antics  10m (33ft)

The corner at the right hand end of the slab.

Paul G’s Climb 10m (33ft)

Climb the overhanging wall to the right of Lunar Antics using a groove/corner. The route may possibly be a HVS 5b.

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