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North Coast Martello Wall

Martello Wall Area

Martello Wall Area

How do I get there?

Carkpark location

Carkpark location

Take the Route Militaire and L’Ancresse road to the Chouet crossroads, at the golf course. Martello wall is reached by turning right at the crossroads and then following the road past the bus stop and large layby. Shortly after the corner take the second turning on the left and follow the road through the crossroads and park at the end of the road. Martello Wall is on the point to the left.

 

 

Below are links to topos of the climbing areas at Martello Wall:

The wall floods two hours before high water. Pitch lengths are about 35-40ft. The first two Pictures are the main gully and the third is the small quaried crag 30yards to the west.

Topo A

Topo A

Topo B

Topo B

Topo C

Topo C

Routes on this crag

Bum of Snitter 12m (39ft)

Left of Glob is an easy arête/gully, start 10ft into the gully left of this. Gain the lefthand end of the ledge at 8ft, then follow the…

Glob  12m (39ft)

Start below the centre of the cliff, by a small rock pool. Climb over ledges to a wide leftward trending crack leading to the arête.

Blog  12m (39ft)

Climb the short slab at the right hand end, past streaks to a break. Finish via a layback crack.

Absent Friends 12m (39ft)

Start from the left hand end of the pool. Climb straight up to gain a wide leftward trending crack and follow.

Snivelling Twin of Snitter 12m (39ft)

Climb to the bulging thin crack left of Son of Snitter and follow it to the top. The grade assumes you’re not tall enough to walk leftwards…

Snitter  12m (39ft)

Start as for Absent Friends. Climb rightward over a scar to a notch.

Son of Snitter 12m (39ft)

Half way up Snitter a crack branches leftwards. A difficult test piece.

Dillan  12m (39ft)

Climb from the right hand end of the pool through a short corner.

May Day  12m (39ft)

The wall to the right.

The Flying Squirrel 6m (20ft)

Climb the corner and bulge under the brick capping wall.

Photos at this crag