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South Coast - Icart Point Gruesome Twosome Area

Routes on this crag

Chocks Away  11m (36ft)

A poor route up the wide crack with a ledge at 7 feet.

Seconds Away 11m (36ft)

The overhanging corner just to the right.

Nadir’s Big Chance 12m (39ft)

Start just around the arête. Follow the crack for 15 feet, then layaway rightward to finish up thin broken cracks.

Take a Chance 12m (39ft)

Sumptuous climbing on the pocketed golden wall right of the Punch Drunk arête. Start 4 metres up and right of the arête. Link the pockets — with…

FYCH 10m (33ft)

A few feet to the right of Take A Chance is a rightward trending crack. Follow this all the way to the top.

Lefthand Gruesome 12m (39ft)

The corner crack, technically low in its grade.

Ugly Pigeon 12m (39ft)

Follow the wall and crack between Lefthand Gruesome and Righthand Gruesome.

Righthand Gruesome 12m (39ft)

The overhanging crack 6 feet to the right.

Le God 10m (33ft)

An unprotected arête above a boulder-strewn landing; this is the curving arête right of the ‘Gruesome Twins’. The grade assumes the absence of bouldering mats. A powerful…

Humoreske 10m (33ft)

Obtuse and sketchy, with the ragged finger-pockets you have to hang providing extra fun. Start 2 metres right of Le God. Use a short clip stick to…

Sweating Alcohol

Between the ‘Gruesome Twosome Area’ and the ‘Central Platforms’ is a vertical wall with an obvious groove at the bottom. Climb this groove (crux) to gain the…

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