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South Coast - Pleinmont Point Area The Sphinx

Pleinmont Point Area

Pleinmont Point Area

How do I get there?

Carpark location

Carpark location

After parking by the german observation tower, walk across the road and down the long field to the cliff path. Turn left and follow the path to a small spoil heap. Head down and across the coupee, scramble down and leftwards around the back past main wall until The Sphinx comes into view.

 

 

 

 

Below is a link to topo of the climbs at The Sphinx:

Topo A

Topo A

Routes on this crag

A1 Christian 18m (59ft)

Now free, and rather good. Start below the crack left of centre in the west wall. Pull into a pod and then follow the strenuous crack with…

Vain in Pink 18m (59ft)

In the centre of the west wall is a bulging rib with a twisting pink vein. A committing lead though a half decent (but hidden) small wire…

Three out of Four 20m (66ft)

Start below the overhanging wall near the centre of the cliff where there is a rightward trending crack system. Follow this.

Three out of Four (direct start) 8m (26ft)

Start as for The Swarm but trend up and slightly left to the small overhangs on the normal route.

The Swarm 21m (69ft)

12 feet right of Three out of Four is a short crack. Follow this, then up a short slab to the top.

Jasper 17m (56ft)

Follow the blunt arête between The Swarm and Trio starting boldly over a slight bulge.

Trio  17m (56ft)

Quite good, hard to start. Follow the crack 25 feet to the right past a ledge and overhang.

UK Climbing details for The Sphinx

Click here to view the UK Climbing page
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