South Coast - Icart Point - Icart Chateau Upper Goat Crag

Routes on this crag

Ambler Gambler 20m (66ft)

Start to the left of Perseus. Climb to the ledge at 10 feet, then follow a weakness up and right to a corner. Finish up this.

Perseus 21m (69ft)

Start at the left hand end of the crag. Climb through a small notch above a grey patch of rock, to an overhang. Trend up and right…

Agent Orange 20m (66ft)

Start just right of Perseus. Climb through the dark bulge to the ramp. Continue directly up the bulging orange wall, until it is possible to move left…

Auriga 20m (66ft)

A pumpy pitch up the hanging right-hand rib of the alcove under Perseus’s ramp, left of the crack of Alpheratz. Take the rib (good small cams) and…

Alpheratz 21m (69ft)

The obvious crack that rises leftwards out of the cave. Undercut boldly into the crack; then work strenuously left (in-situ thread) into a corner. Follow the corner…

Demon Star 24m (79ft)

A superb climb, Gogarth-like, which is very sustained. It takes the line of weakness above and left of the cave and overhung corner. A large wart on…

Andromeda 25m (82ft)

A steep juggy line giving fine climbing on good rock. Below the centre of the cliff is a ‘cave’, from which a crack trends rightward. Start about…

Trouble With Lichen 21m (69ft)

Start up to the right below a rightward facing corner with two overhangs. Climb this and the groove above to a ledge below the final bulges. Move…

Space Probe  28m (92ft)

Start below the corner of Trouble With Lichen. Traverse left above the overhang to the left hand end of the cliff.

Space Probe Variation 28m (92ft)

After rounding the arête finish up the crackline.

Don’t Fear The Creeper 20m (66ft)

Start 6 feet to the right, by a pink streak of rock. Climb to a roof at 10 feet, then gain the ledge on the left. Continue…

Herbie  18m (59ft)

The gully a few feet to the right.

Tucker’s Route  15m (49ft)

12 feet right of Herbie is a blunt arête. Climb this, then up the dirty groove.

Paraquat Groove  14m (46ft)

12 feet to the right is a deceptive V groove.

Blowout 15m (49ft)

Follow the right hand edge of the slabby section with poor protection.