A high-stress lead up the fine east wall left of the chockstone in the Snack Attack zawn. Very sustained, and needing careful, cool climbing. Climb the left…
Routes on this crag
Boulder to Kurdistan
12m (39ft)
Very gymnastic. Climb a leftward-slanting crack to the roof. Reach over to layback holds and (with protection just above) swing wildly rightwards on slopers to better holds…
Hangoverless
12m (39ft)
The right hand crack: sustained and safe. Climb the leftward-slanting crack to the roof and layback over to a resting place. Climb the crack to a problematic…
Guernsey Gosh
21m (69ft)
Possibly the best of the trio with inventive moves in a nice position. Climb the leftward-slanting crack to the roof. With protection just above, traverse right along…
Rumplestiltskin
18m (59ft)
Start on the same ledge, 20 feet to the right. Climb a short slab to gain an obvious ramp which trends leftwards to the finish of Paradise…
Melons
17m (56ft)
Start by the raised block. Climb to a bulge at 20 feet. Surmount this and finish just left of the thin rightward facing edge.
Gizzard Puke
21m (69ft)
Start below the previous route (Safety In Numbers). Trend rightward on good jugs to a corner near the arête. Follow this. Poorly protected.
Never Mind The Molluscs
17m (56ft)
Start just to the right. Climb the vertical crack through the bulge to the top.
Big Black Jug
14m (46ft)
Start at the narrow pool, as for the last route (Sunset Boulevard). Gain a small ledge at 45 feet, then take the groove split by a leftward…
Ermine The Frog
10m (33ft)
Start from the very right hand end of the ledge. Gain a niche at 10 feet, move rightward a few feet, then climb direct to the top.
Dimanche Noir
23m (75ft)
Start just left of Rumplestiltskin and climb diagonally up the wall to join vertical cracks and pockets. The steep dolerite headwall is climbed to its apex.
Paradise Lost
23m (75ft)
Start 40 feet to the right on a ledge 20 feet above the beach. Move into a niche below a rightward facing zig zag corner, and follow…
Fool’s Paradise
49m (161ft)
A serious lead. Start below the right wall, at the foot of a ramp. 1 – 60 feet, 3b. Traverse leftward along the ramp to its top.…