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Routes on this crag

Mirage  11m (36ft)

Climb the right hand edge of the slab, just left of the scarred corner.

Illusion 11m (36ft)

Start near the left hand edge of the ledge. Climb the slab 5 feet right of a small corner.

Slough of Despond 15m (49ft)

Start a few feet to the right. Climb the overhanging corner, moving left to the arête, then back right to finish.

Chameleon 12m (39ft)

Climb the scarred corner and groove below the red wall.

Living on a Knife-edge 20m (66ft)

Start as for Slough of Despond. Climb rightward to a small ledge on the arête, then the corner and cracks above.

Bayonet Crack 25m (82ft)

A good route following the kinked crack which cuts across the left hand wall of the bay. Gain the crack and follow around the kink to a…

Apache 25m (82ft)

Climb to the ledge as for Soldier Blue, then go up through the quartz patches to a crack. Follow this to the roof, layaway halfway over this,…

Soldier Blue 25m (82ft)

Start just right of Bayonet Crack near the left hand end of the ledge. Climb a short overhanging niche to a ledge, then move diagonally left beneath…

Avoidance  30m (98ft)

Start from the highest point of the ledge. Follow a crack to a break. Move right to the chockstone. Meander leftward to a step in the skyline…

Deliverance 25m (82ft)

Avoids the main difficulty by a timely escape. Start from the platform to the right. Climb a faint arête to a break at 20 feet. Follow the…

Lost in Space 25m (82ft)

Follow Deliverance for 15 feet, then trend leftward past a flake to the crack/hole below the overhang. Move left into Bayonet Crack and climb this for 10…

Dirty Harry 30m (98ft)

Start down and to the right. Follow a crack to the chockstone, gain this with difficulty. Climb up to a corner from the right hand side of…

Undercarriage Failure 26m (85ft)

Climb the wall and arête just to the right, then up a chalky slab to a shag’s nest. Finish Direct. Starting 10 feet up the chimney and…

Consolation  26m (85ft)

Climb the wide chimney.

Possum 28m (92ft)

Start below the large bulge between Consolation and Agrippa, at the foot of the diagonal crack of Crossfire. Climb to the bulge, skirt this on the right,…

Crossfire  37m (121ft)

Start around the arête. Climb the crack which cuts diagonally across the face from right to left, passing through the previous three routes (Fly on a Windshield,…

Agrippa 26m (85ft)

Start just to the right. Gain a ledge at 12 feet then climb directly upwards to a wide crack at 40 feet. Continue up this, then over…

Mussop 28m (92ft)

Start as for Possum. Climb up to the large slab below the large bulge and go over this at its halfway point. Move slightly right and finish…

Fishmarket 30m (98ft)

Start 20 feet to the right. Follow a thin brown crack that curves leftward across the face to the shag’s nest. Finish direct.

A Plague of Lighthouse Keepers 34m (112ft)

A few feet to the right is a wide crack. Follow this for 30 feet, then move left across an old smooth scar. Follow a weakness up…

Krakatoa (26m) 26m (85ft)

Start on the ledge as for Health Hazard. Move left and climb a groove to a roof. Undercling a crack to the lip of the roof, then…

Health Hazard 26m (85ft)

A sustained route with a fine finish. Gain a ledge at 8 feet on the wall opposite A Plague of Lighthouse Keepers. Climb rightward beneath the overhang,…

Every Witch Way 25m (82ft)

A high standard classic up the overhanging black corner in the centre of the west-facing wall. Strenuous but safe. Climb easily into the corner. Take a leaning…

Solocide 25m (82ft)

Some difficult and committing climbing up cracks and grooves left of the central overhanging black corner. Move up to parallel cracks in the bulge left of the…

Baldylocks and the Three Hairs 25m (82ft)

Start 20 feet to the right beneath three bulging overhangs. Climb the lower overhangs by dint of devious deviations, to the large bulge. Pull over this with…

Fish 12m (39ft)

An excellent little route, adequately protected on small wires. It takes the arête right of Reptile, and is low in its grade. Start as for Reptile. Make…

Jam Sandwich 14m (46ft)

Takes the squeeze chimney 10 feet to the right. Bad.

Decline and Fall 10m (33ft)

An awkward line climbing the overhanging corner right of Barracuda. Finishing as for Joker’s Arête makes the route more sustained.

Joker’s Ar’te 20m (66ft)

A strenuous and technical line up the hanging arête 10 feet to the right. Start at the foot of the chimney. Move up and left to peg…

Ceaseless Tide 14m (46ft)

The Chimney to the right gives reasonable climbing.

Lurch 6m (20ft)

10 feet to the right is a rightward leaning crack. Strenuous.

The Shining  12m (39ft)

Start around the arête to the right, behind the rock pool. Gain the ledge at 5 feet. Move leftward, pull over the bulge just right of the…

Cosmo’s Crack 10m (33ft)

An excellent test piece, fingery and sustained but well protected. Start below and to the right. Climb the thin leftward leaning crack, which meets the top of…

Headbanger  10m (33ft)

Move up and right beneath the triangular overhang to gain the slab. Finish through the right hand side of the summit block.

Lord of Darkness 15m (49ft)

Start as for The Shining. Climb up through a small V notch just left of the large triangular bulge, then easily up to the final bulge. Climb…

The Myth Implodes 12m (39ft)

10 feet right of Headbanger is a low overhang with two holes under it. Climb over this to finish up the slabs. Bit of a ‘one move…

Fly on a Windshield 28m (92ft)

Start as for Magnum Force. Gain the arête left of the chimney and climb the wall above (unprotected) to the diagonal crack. Move right a few feet,…

Magnum Force 30m (98ft)

Start on the ledge overlooking the gully. Climb leftward along a ramp above the gully to the chockstone. Move up and slightly right for 15 feet, then…

Black Angel 30m (98ft)

Follow Avoidance until is breaks right. Continue boldly to climb the wide crack. Finish leftward along a ramp.

Godbluff 25m (82ft)

Start down and to the right below the large corner. Follow the leftwards trending crack to a small niche. Gain a small ledge 6 feet higher, where…

L’Escargot  21m (69ft)

Climb the steep wall and follow the main groove just to the right.

L’Escargot Variation 21m (69ft)

Above and to the right of the main groove is a stepped ramp. Gain this with difficulty and follow it.

Crisis Point 23m (75ft)

A fine route, though escape is possible when the going gets tough. The crux is not well protected. Start at the left hand end of the platform.…

Prolapse 17m (56ft)

An enjoyable well protected route. Don’t let the name put you off. Follow Crisis Point to the chockstone, then continue up the crack and slabs.

Pawn Hearts 15m (49ft)

Start a few feet right of the platform edge. Boulder up to a tiny niche, then follow the crack system.

Basilisk 12m (39ft)

The hardest moves are low but difficult to protect. Start on the step in the centre of the platform. Climb the wall using layaway flakes and a…

Reptile 12m (39ft)

A long reach makes the final moves much easier. It takes the left of the two arêtes at the right hand end of the wall. Start at…

Ides of March 6m (20ft)

Start at the foot of Lurch. Follow the thin crack up and left to the arête, move slightly right to finish.

Flotsam  10m (33ft)

Takes the easy angled ramp right of Jetsam, exiting right or left.

Death of a Teacosy 14m (46ft)

Start at the foot of Jetsam. Layaway up and left to big jugs on the face between Jetsam and Jam Sandwich. Climb this.

Jetsam  10m (33ft)

Climb the groove 10 feet to the right. Worse.

Barracuda 15m (49ft)

Climbs the wall right of Fish. Start from the triangular ledge in the gully. Climb the crack rightwards to a good ledge. Hand traverse left to the…

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