South Coast - La Congrelle Gull Zawn

Contrived, but good value. A falling leader would have quite an impact on the area. Follow a thin brown seam to the left hand edge of the…

A difficult problem with a well protected crux. Follow the quartz seams to the roof and climb this via a thin crack. Gain an easier groove with…

The wall and bulges between Climax and Auk Chasm.

12 feet to the right is a square cut chimney feature.

The red blotched corner and bulge right of Auk Chasm.

Climb the slabby side of the arête between Mad Dog Rides Again and Dodo.

Climb the corner on the left.

Climb the corner to a small overhang. Move right onto a slab, then up and left to small ledges above the overhang. Finish up the short corner.

1 – 40 feet, 5a. Climb the arête between Smurf and Shot In The Dark with a tricky move to gain a large flat hold below a…

To the right is a recessed slab above a black band of rock. 1 – 40 feet. Climb up the slab to the bulge, move right to…

On the second pitch, climb the groove behind the stance to the overhang. Move right to finish.

Just to the right is a short wall. Climb this to a spike below a small overhang, finish over this.

Take the steep slab just right of the overhang of Riders On The Storm.

Climb the bulge a few feet left of the groove of Sunburnt Finish. Continue up the slab, small wires, and finish up the diamond shaped slab.

It takes the open groove on the left, which leads to a jagged notch. Move up to a sharp downward pointing spike, then gain the groove up…

Start as for Sunburnt Finish but climb up on the right to the smooth 45 degree bulge. Gain the small sloping ledge below the left hand edge…

Styx Trip

Start as for Sunburnt Finish. From the triangular ledge climb the short grey wall to the bulge. Trend up and right 10 feet to a small overhang…

Hades

A brilliant route up the centre of the blank looking wall, possibly the best pitch on Guernsey. Protection is just adequate: small wires and 1.5 Friend. Follow…

Fallen Angel

A fine sustained route. Start below the downward pointing triangular niche. Gain the niche, then up to a peg runner. Move up 6 feet, then traverse right…

After the Gold-Rush

A recommended route. The final groove is excellent. Start as for Fallen Angel. Gain the slab to the right, and traverse to its right hand end. Follow…

Titanium Stripper

Climb direct to the niche of After the Gold-Rush (5c). Move right 8 feet, then climb up between the groove of After the Gold-Rush and the arête…

Corridors of Power

Start down and 15 feet to the right, below the undercut arête. Leave the ground with great difficulty and follow a thin crack to a peg runner…

The logical finish up the top arête, which improves the route. Not too taxing, but run out.

Tao

An excellent traverse giving contrasting pitches. Start by scrambling down to a belay near the foot of the chockstone on Chockstone Chimney. 1 – 75 feet, 5b.…

Climb the ‘pod-like’ chimney and groove with chockstones.

Procrastination

Start as for Chockstone Chimney. Move left onto the ledge at 10 feet. Move up and slightly left to thin flakes (blind rock 1 runner). Climb these…

A desperate struggle! Start as for Chockstone Chimney. Trend slightly right up juggy crack to the bottomless chimney at 30 feet. Follow this.

Valediction

Start 15 feet the right by a fallen block. Climb thin cracks for 10 feet, then move right to an under cling. Gain a horizontal break at…

Sledgehammer

Start as for Valediction, but continue straight up the corner to the large roof just right of the Rat Trap chimney. Make a difficult move right to…

Follow Valediction to the break at 25 feet. Move to its right hand, then follow the obvious series of flakes, overhangs and slabs to the top.

Effectively a direct start to Trail of Deception. Technical and bold. Climb the thin rightward slanting ramp, using the arête on the right towards its top (stainless…

A Guernsey Double

Steep climbing with good protection but strenuous to place. 10 feet right of the start of Valediction, Trail of Deception etc. is an arête, around this the…

Takes the arête left of Nemesis. Stick clip the tat, pull up your own rope then off you go, First Ascent; 1999?

Nightshift

The magnificent right angled arête in the east wall towards the back of the zawn. Routine sport tactics are required to get started, take a 1.5 metre…

Nemesis

Right of the huge fallen block is an extremely overhanging crack. Climb this, through roofs to a steep slab. Finish directly up this.

Space Invader

To the right is a steep corner. Climb this for 40 feet to the slab. Move left 20 feet, crossing Nemesis, around a faint arête. Climb through…

Interstellar Overdrive

Climb the corner as for Space Invader, and continue direct to the top. Strenuous but well protected.

The Black Hole

The deep chimney makes an interesting excursion in the dark. Climb deep inside the chimney, exit from the blackness to climb the left wards rising ramp and…

Outer Space

Powerful climbing up the headwall right of Black Hole. Climb the outside of Black Hole’s chimney (gear in right hand crack); and extrude into a niche at…

The Gneiss Girls

A profoundly exacting route that takes an intricate line up the bare wall left of Gneiss Gorilla. Total commitment obligatory. Follow a line of blind pockets (RPs)…

Gneiss Gorilla

An interesting route, slightly necky. 15 feet right of the chimney is a corner high up. Start down and to the right. Gain the corner capped by…

Gain the large hold from the groove below; Friend 1.5 protects.

Crossing the Rubicon

Start as for Gneiss Gorilla. Climb the short corner below the roof, over this to gain the ledge below the final groove of Chimp. Gain the arête…

Breathless

A fine route taking the centre of the face to the right. Start below the overhanging crack. Climb the crack and mantleshelf to gain ledges (crux). Continue…

Chimp

The final corner is excellent. A belay can be taken halfway to avoid rope drag. Start at the right hand end of the ledge, by a rock…

Start as for Chimp, and climb directly to the right hand end of the ledge of that route. Climb over a small overhang, then continue up a…

Rock of Ages

A fine line, not high in its grade, taking the large corner on the right. Start as for Chimp then move right to the corner and follow.…

Climb the direct start of Rock of Ages to the ledge. Move up and right across a thin seam of quartz to a good jug. Continue for…

Climb through the cave to extrude onto the ledge. Horrific. Finish up a short groove.

Right of the finish of Slimy Squeeze is a large bulge. Climb up to the right hand side of this and from a ledge reach a good…

Start on the large ledge above the right of the cave. Step onto the wall above the cave entrance, climb a bulge then a corner.

A traverse of the east wall starting as for Orca. Climb this, then traverse left into the corner of Rock of Ages. Move up for a few…

To the left of Gull Zawn opposite Gull Stack there is a narrow quite square shaped inlet with an upstanding spike in the back right hand corner.…