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South Coast - La Congrelle La Congrelle

Routes on this crag

Hot Toddy 14m (46ft)

A better route, giving more sustained climbing. Climb the groove to the right, moving left at the top.

In High Seas 20m (66ft)

A fine route which zig-zags up the impending wall above The Stinker. Start at the base of the black corner on the left (Hot Toddy). Climb diagonally…

The Stinker 18m (59ft)

A deceptive route, with a committing crux. 15 feet to the right of Hot Toddy are twin rightward trending cracks. Move leftwards to gain the two cracks,…

Think Before You Stink 17m (56ft)

A difficult route which merges with the finish of The Stinker. Start 10 feet to the right. Climb the easy wall to the ramp, then the corner…

Blood Lust 17m (56ft)

A good line, nowhere desperate, climbing the sharp corner to the roof which is jammed on the left.

Panache  17m (56ft)

An enjoyable climb up the wall to the right. Gain the ledge up and right of the corner. Move right and over a bulge to and overhang,…

Born a Believer 15m (49ft)

A brilliant face climb with reasonable gear. From the right hand end of the sloping ledge go up an overhanging black scoop right of the arête to…

Dead Slappy 15m (49ft)

The overhanging arête: slappy and committing. Take the left side of the arête on good holds initially and with good gear in a thin crack. Continue dynamically…

Remington  40m (131ft)

A good route with plenty of interest. 1 – 50 feet, 5a. Climb directly up to a belay niche below bulges at 50 feet. 2 – 80…

The Witch’s Tooth  30m (98ft)

Climb a deep crack, then traverse left below the main ledge. Climb a short slab, then trend left past two ramps. Move around the arête, then up…

Friday The Thirteenth 25m (82ft)

Climb the deep crack to the ledge, then take the twin cracks to a small ledge. Finish up the overhanging crack.

The Curtains 11m (36ft)

10 feet right of the twin cracks on the upper part of Friday The Thirteenth is a leftward trending overhanging corner. Climb the corner with thin protection.

Eel Bred 28m (92ft)

An incipient line of weakness in the centre of the wall. Unrelentingly strenuous, and trying to protect-nice. Follow the initial groove and step out right to the…

Hugo’s Here 45m (148ft)

One of the more amenable routes up the wall that offers a logical and gentler finish to Eel Bred. From the top of Eel Bred’s groove, step…

Victor 28m (92ft)

Eliminate, but with some great climbing. Climb Eels on Wheels to the optional stance at 6 metres. From the right hand end of the ledge, climb a…

Gales from the Crypt  45m (148ft)

A varied line with engaging challenges up the right hand end of the west wall. Start atop the huge boulder. 1 – 22 metres, 6a. Climb up…

Les Miserables 15m (49ft)

Technical and satisfying climbing up the right arête. Climb the low arête direct to a break — bold. Using holds on the left at first, move up…

MP3 15m (49ft)

Not hard for the grade, though the protection needs some working out. Start at a rock pool by a wide slot at head height. Make a bold…

Gardener’s World 38m (125ft)

Start 20 feet to the right, below an open corner. Climb this for 8 feet, then move up and right to gain a groove which leads through…

China Wall 37m (121ft)

Start just right of the cave. Climb to a ledge at 20 feet, then up a series of rightward facing flakes on the wall. Move up and…

Conger Slab 37m (121ft)

From where China Wall moves off to the right, continue up the centre of the steep grey slab. Make thinnish moves to gain the overhang and pull…

Le Jardinier 40m (131ft)

An eliminate line. Start from the ledge of China Wall. Instead of going straight up as for that route, make an awkward move up and right to…

Survival  30m (98ft)

1 – 50 feet, 4c. As for Nowhere to Hyde. 2 – 65 feet, 4b. Climb the corner crack above the belay to a small stance on…

Quo Vadis  47m (154ft)

A superb varied route which meanders its way up the face generally avoiding all the hard bits. It is quite hard in its grade. Start at the…

Qui Va La?  41m (135ft)

A difficult and exposed alternative finish to Quo Vadis. 1 – 55 feet, 4c. As for Quo Vadis pitch 1. 2 – 80 feet, 5b. Climb the…

Laissez-Faire 25m (82ft)

Start 25 feet right of Quo Vadis directly below a sentry box. Climb to this, then move up and right to a corner. Follow this to the…

Small Talk 20m (66ft)

Start on the large ledge right of Rooster Booster above the gully of Sandhopper. Climb the wide crack, then follow the arête keeping right of the two…

Rooster Booster 23m (75ft)

Start 10 feet up and right of Chickenhead near the top of the rising ledge. Climb the small overhang above a thin crack, then move up to…

Running on Empty 25m (82ft)

Just right of Sandhopper a large boss of rock sticks out. Climb around the right hand side of this to its top, then go over the bulging…

Cling or Swing  63m (207ft)

A fine traverse of the cliff, best appreciated towards high tide with a good swell. Start from the scarred ledge of Chickenhead. 1 – 110 feet, 4c.…

Sandhopper 18m (59ft)

Start above the pool. Climb up and left to gain the overhanging crack. Bridge up to the wall above and finish up the thin crack.

Eclipse 23m (75ft)

Start halfway into the cave beyond Sandhopper from a large jammed boulder. Climb up the corner crack, then move up though a constriction. Move a few feet…

La Carre 10m (33ft)

Climb the corner and bulge.

Negoce 10m (33ft)

Climb the innocuous looking crack to the right.

Top Up 23m (75ft)

Start just right of The Devil’s Breath. Climb a groove with quartz speckles to a ledge. Finish up a short corner at the right hand side of…

The Devil’s Breath 25m (82ft)

An artificial but worthwhile route. Start at the seaward end of the rock filled pool and climb to a ledge at 35 feet. Take the leftward trending…

Small Talk, Direct Start 6m (20ft)

Climb the bulge right of the initial crack.

Chickenhead 25m (82ft)

Start from a ledge up and to the right. Move leftward across the wall for a few feet, then up to a ledge. Continue up the leftward…

Mai a la Tete 25m (82ft)

Start as for Chickenhead. Make greasy sea level moves leftward into the corner below the roof on Laissez-Faire. Climb this for a short distance , then move…

B’stard 21m (69ft)

3 aid points. Start on a very small ledge at sea level, below the centre of the roof. Tenuous and greasy climbing leads leftwards to a crack…

Nowhere to Hyde  34m (112ft)

1 – 50 feet, 4c. Start as for Dr. Jeckyll. Traverse right 35 feet to the arête. Move around this to a hanging belay below a roof.…

Dr. Jeckyll 37m (121ft)

Start as for Gardener’s World. Climb up an right to gain a crack and groove which leads to a notch in the skyline arête. Climb the cracks…

Hedgehog Highway 37m (121ft)

At the left hand end of the wall is a narrow cave. Climb up just right of the cave, with awkward moves over the undercut. Follow a…

MP4 15m (49ft)

A climb of character up the narrow right-facing corner, which fulsome protection. After an awkward move onto the black ramp, climb the corner to flakes at the…

King Conger 35m (115ft)

A tremendous climb taking a fairly direct line up the landward end of the big and black west wall. Sustained with the hardest moves away from gear…

Toiler on the Sea 45m (148ft)

Stupendous! A varied classic that weaves up the highest part of the west face in its centre. One of the best routes on Guernsey. Start 6 metres…

Eels on Wheels 28m (92ft)

A superb and improbable pitch that slants left across the headwall above the roofs. Adequate protection, but expect to get pumped placing it. Follow the groove and…

The Shooting Gallery  38m (125ft)

1 – 55 feet, 5a. Start to the right from a boulder by the in situ car engine, below a blunt arête. Step onto the wall and…

The Christian 20m (66ft)

Distressingly under-protected though not that hard for the grade. Follow Born a Believer to its small roof; and swing right to a semi-rest on a rib. From…

Claystorm 15m (49ft)

Follow the overhanging crack above the right end of the ledge, and the groove on the right.

The Baldest 17m (56ft)

Climb up a few feet right of the Blood Lust corner to the large overhang. Pull over this on big jugs in an exciting position, then go…

The Thinker, Direct Start 10m (33ft)

Start in between Think Before You Stink and Blood Lust below the apex of the triangular overhang at 25 feet. Gain the ledge below the overhang, move…

The Thinker 20m (66ft)

An interesting climb with a perplexing crux. Start as for The Stinker. Trend rightward along a ramp feature to the arête.

Last Legs 12m (39ft)

Climb over two ledges to finish up the black corner.

Silence the Critics 14m (46ft)

25 feet left of Last Legs is a thin crack leading to a corner. Climb the crack, swing right onto a steep ramp and finish up the…

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