South Coast - La Corbiere Red Crag

Climb the grey ramp and blocky corner left of the white wall.

Climb Hunkey Dorey to a thin horizontal crack. Traverse right, past a peg runner onto the arête. Follow this. A good route, technically not too hard.

Takes the corner and overhangs to the right, giving difficult but well protected climbing. Gain a sloping ledge at 6 feet, then move up to a grey…

Start below the overhung corner scoop 10 metres up. Gain a small slanting edge at 2 metres, moving up onto a grey-streaked slab. Climb up and precariously…

A poor eliminate. 10 feet to the right is a layback crack. Climb this to a ledge, then up to a scoop above grey streaks. Gain the…

Quite a good route. Climb the layback crack and continue up to a ‘V’ notch. Surmount this, and finish up the slab.

Slab Direct

This combination of routes makes an excellent climb. Climb the crack as for the previous routes (Concrete Waistcoat and Joey), and then move right to gain the…

Difficulties are brief, but sharpened by the possibility of bouncing on the slab. 5 feet right of the layback crack is a short arête. Climb this move…

Tide Race

A fine well protected route. Start from the right hand side of the bay. Traverse left along the black sill, then move up and left to gain…

Boomerang

A superb route. 1 – 80 feet, 4b. Follow Tide Race to the small roof, then move right and follow a scoop for 15 feet. Make an…

Boomerang Variation

After moving right at the roof, continue up the arête to the finish of Negress.

Utilises the variation finish of Boomerang (Boomerang Variation) to give an independent line. Start below the left hand corner of the grey slab as for Boomerang. Follow…

Gary Big Tits

Climb the corner left of Negress, then over the left hand wall and up to the top of the slab finishing as for Boomerang.

A pleasant route taking the groove above the grey slab.

Climb the overhang just left of The Porg, then move up and left to a ledge. Climb the thin crack behind this to the top.

Right of the slab is a corner between two large projecting rocks. Climb the bulge and a crack on the right.

Takes the two bulges between The Porg and Boulder Gully.

Takes the obvious crack left of the rock pool.

A girdle of the cliff, mostly at a reasonable standard. 1 – 85 feet, 4b. Climb the corner of The Porg and continue leftward to the pinnacle.…