Routes on this crag

Hunkey Dorey 15m (49ft)

Climb the grey ramp and blocky corner left of the white wall.

White Wall 12m (39ft)

Climb Hunkey Dorey to a thin horizontal crack. Traverse right, past a peg runner onto the arête. Follow this. A good route, technically not too hard.

Cemented Relations 15m (49ft)

Takes the corner and overhangs to the right, giving difficult but well protected climbing. Gain a sloping ledge at 6 feet, then move up to a grey…

Cement Failure 18m (59ft)

Start below the overhung corner scoop 10 metres up. Gain a small slanting edge at 2 metres, moving up onto a grey-streaked slab. Climb up and precariously…

Concrete Waistcoat 18m (59ft)

A poor eliminate. 10 feet to the right is a layback crack. Climb this to a ledge, then up to a scoop above grey streaks. Gain the…

Joey 18m (59ft)

Quite a good route. Climb the layback crack and continue up to a ‘V’ notch. Surmount this, and finish up the slab.

Slab Direct 34m (112ft)

This combination of routes makes an excellent climb. Climb the crack as for the previous routes (Concrete Waistcoat and Joey), and then move right to gain the…

Human Race 23m (75ft)

Difficulties are brief, but sharpened by the possibility of bouncing on the slab. 5 feet right of the layback crack is a short arête. Climb this move…

Tide Race 37m (121ft)

A fine well protected route. Start from the right hand side of the bay. Traverse left along the black sill, then move up and left to gain…

Boomerang  40m (131ft)

A superb route. 1 – 80 feet, 4b. Follow Tide Race to the small roof, then move right and follow a scoop for 15 feet. Make an…

Boomerang Variation 40m (131ft)

After moving right at the roof, continue up the arête to the finish of Negress.

Masektet 28m (92ft)

Utilises the variation finish of Boomerang (Boomerang Variation) to give an independent line. Start below the left hand corner of the grey slab as for Boomerang. Follow…

Gary Big Tits 30m (98ft)

Climb the corner left of Negress, then over the left hand wall and up to the top of the slab finishing as for Boomerang.

Negress  26m (85ft)

A pleasant route taking the groove above the grey slab.

Charybdis 26m (85ft)

Climb the overhang just left of The Porg, then move up and left to a ledge. Climb the thin crack behind this to the top.

The Porg  11m (36ft)

Right of the slab is a corner between two large projecting rocks. Climb the bulge and a crack on the right.

Space Race 14m (46ft)

Takes the two bulges between The Porg and Boulder Gully.

Boulder Gully  8m (26ft)

Takes the obvious crack left of the rock pool.

New Year’s Heave  47m (154ft)

A girdle of the cliff, mostly at a reasonable standard. 1 – 85 feet, 4b. Climb the corner of The Porg and continue leftward to the pinnacle.…