Herpin Rock Area

Herpin Rock Area

How do I get there?

Carpark location

Carpark location

After parking in the car park next to the scrambling track entrance, walk down the cliff towards the tongue. Scramble down rightwards, then around left to the base of the crag until Gaul Wall comes into view. Topos are from left to right. The cliff is best approached from the right, following the walk down shown on the location plan.






Below are links to topos of the climbs at Gaul Wall:

Topo A

Topo A

Topo B

Topo B

Topo C

Topo C

Topo D

Topo D

Routes on this crag

Dogmatix 12m (39ft)

The arête above a shallow pool 7 feet right of Obelix.

Good Days

To the west of the small stack is a steep gully, on the land side, near the north of the stack is a vertical crack which steps…


The crack line in the centre of the west face of the small stack.

Gaulstone 21m (69ft)

The bare face right of Gluteus Maximus; an excellent direct pitch, though the best protection may be tricky to find on sight. Start as for Jude the…

Cacophonix 23m (75ft)

Start on the arête 15 feet to the right. Climb the roof to a large undercut. Move leftward and follow a thin crack through two bulges.

Asterix 25m (82ft)

An interesting route with some committing moves. Start 10 feet right of the undercut section by the black triangular shaped ledge. From the ledge traverse left along…

Gluteus Maximus 25m (82ft)

Follows the steep corner to the right. Start as for Asterix. Gain the open book feature. Follow this, moving left at the overhang to a short slab.…

The Crack  21m (69ft)

Just to the right is a corner. Follow this to the large overhang, then continue up the wide crack.

The Slot  21m (69ft)

Right again is a wide square-cut chimney below the large roof. Climb the back of the chimney, avoid the roof by a traverse right. This route has…

Casi 21m (69ft)

Just to the right of The Slot is an overhang. Climb this and finish as for The Slot. This route has been destroyed by a rock fall…

The Nose  21m (69ft)

Start as for Easy Route. Climb straight up the prow and through the notch in the bulge, finishing up the short wall.

Far from the Madding Crowd  21m (69ft)

Start just to the right. Climb up a faint rib on the right hand side of the bulge to a higher overhang. Move up and rightward then…

Easy Route  21m (69ft)

At the left hand side of the point is a slab, left of a prow of rock. Climb the slab to finish up the short steep corner.…

Coda 21m (69ft)

6 feet right of Casi is a hole. Climb direct to this, then follow the crack above. This route has been destroyed by a rock fall in…

Rumours 21m (69ft)

Start just right of Jude the Obscure in the centre of a two tier slab. Climb easily up the centre of the slabs to a bulge and…

Jude the Obscure 21m (69ft)

10 feet right of the ledge is a rightward trending crack. Follow this for 20 feet to a bulge then continue more direct to the top.

Hysteronix 21m (69ft)

Start in the boulder-filled gully beneath the obvious crack which splits the wall right of the cave. Climb the initial overhang with difficulty and follow the crack…

Geriatrix 12m (39ft)

Climb the face 8 feet right of Dogmatix to a groove and finish up the arête.

Obelix 12m (39ft)

Climbs the east side of the stack, difficult to start. Above the water-filled undercut is a corner which leads to a crack.

Vital Statistix 12m (39ft)

The short corner 7 feet left of Obelix.

UK Climbing details for Gaul Wall

Click here to view the UK Climbing page