South Coast - Herpin Rock Area Hanois Cliff

This takes the obvious zig-zag corner, hard to start.

The blocky wall a few feet to the right.

Start at the left hand end of the undercut, 6 feet left of the wide crack. Climb up to and over the poorly protected wall on thin…

Climb the wide crack to the bulge. Over this to finish up thin cracks in the final pink overhang.

Start 15 feet to the right. Climb the large roof, finish up the steep wall. Could be a grade harder without a Friend 1.

Start on the arête 10 feet to the right. Climb to the right hand end of the roof, finish up the short wall.

Retch

A good line taking the corner behind Hanois Arête, moving left at the roof.

10 feet to the right is an inverted V slot. The route follows the corner system just right of this, moving right over a thin quartz seam,…

Start at the right hand end of the cave. Gain a small sloping ledge at 4 feet on the left. Climb directly up to and over the…

Zebedee

Start as for Dying Spark but follow the handcrack leftwards to finish as for Retch on the left hand side of the corner. May be much harder…

15 feet right of Dying Spark is a leftward trending crack. Follow this to finish up the brown corner.

Climb direct to the corner (poorly protected).

Start a few feet right of Ember Crack. Climb into the niche, and over the bulge on good holds to finish up the crack.

The short steep wall 6 feet to the right (unprotected).

Just right again is a short steep corner. Finish up the crack continuation.

A few feet to the right is an arête. Gain this and continue up through a groove to the top. An easier alternative start is 10 feet…

Climb straight up through the bulge which is capped by a pink vein of rock.

20 feet to the right is an overhanging corner, gained with difficulty.

10 feet to the right is a groove capped by an overhang. Climb to the roof, move right to finish. Something big appears to have fallen off…

20 feet to the right is a chimney with a squeeze at the top.