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South Coast - Herpin Rock Area Hanois Cliff

Herpin Rock Area

Herpin Rock Area

How do I get there?

Carpark location

Carpark location

After parking by the bunker with the balanced roof in the photo above, scramble down past the rocky outcrop on the right as you look directly out from the bunker. Skirt across the top of the crag leftwards as you look out until you come to a platform with a downclimb onto the ledge nearer sea level. Liberator Gully drops down on the right, and Hanois Cliff is a short walk northwest.

 

 

 

 

Below are links to topos of the climbs at Hanois Cliff:

Topo A

Topo A

Topo B

Topo B

Topo C

Topo C

Topo D

Topo D

Routes on this crag

Zephyr  12m (39ft)

The blocky wall a few feet to the right.

Zig Zag  12m (39ft)

This takes the obvious zig-zag corner, hard to start.

Retch  20m (66ft)

A good line taking the corner behind Hanois Arête, moving left at the roof.

Battle of the Bulge 20m (66ft)

Climb the wide crack to the bulge. Over this to finish up thin cracks in the final pink overhang.

Hanois Roof 20m (66ft)

Start 15 feet to the right. Climb the large roof, finish up the steep wall. Could be a grade harder without a Friend 1.

Hanois Arête 20m (66ft)

Start on the arête 10 feet to the right. Climb to the right hand end of the roof, finish up the short wall.

Zebedee 18m (59ft)

Start as for Dying Spark but follow the handcrack leftwards to finish as for Retch on the left hand side of the corner. May be much harder…

Ember Crack  18m (59ft)

15 feet right of Dying Spark is a leftward trending crack. Follow this to finish up the brown corner.

Ember Crack Variation 18m (59ft)

Climb direct to the corner (poorly protected).

Nipper  8m (26ft)

Just right again is a short steep corner. Finish up the crack continuation.

Pedagogue 10m (33ft)

20 feet to the right is an overhanging corner, gained with difficulty.

Monopod 10m (33ft)

Climb straight up through the bulge which is capped by a pink vein of rock.

Slimmer’s Chimney  12m (39ft)

20 feet to the right is a chimney with a squeeze at the top.

Piper 12m (39ft)

10 feet to the right is a groove capped by an overhang. Climb to the roof, move right to finish. Something big appears to have fallen off…

The Poison Dwarf 20m (66ft)

A few feet to the right is an arête. Gain this and continue up through a groove to the top. An easier alternative start is 10 feet…

Bridgeit the Midget 8m (26ft)

The short steep wall 6 feet to the right (unprotected).

Sparklet  14m (46ft)

Start a few feet right of Ember Crack. Climb into the niche, and over the bulge on good holds to finish up the crack.

Dying Spark 18m (59ft)

Start at the right hand end of the cave. Gain a small sloping ledge at 4 feet on the left. Climb directly up to and over the…

Erehwon 20m (66ft)

10 feet to the right is an inverted V slot. The route follows the corner system just right of this, moving right over a thin quartz seam,…

Flakey Wall 20m (66ft)

Start at the left hand end of the undercut, 6 feet left of the wide crack. Climb up to and over the poorly protected wall on thin…

UK Climbing details for Hanois Cliff

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