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South Coast - Herpin Rock Area Liberator Gully

Herpin Rock Area

Herpin Rock Area

How do I get there?

Carpark location

Carpark location

After parking by the bunker with the balanced roof in the photo above, scramble down past the rocky outcrop on the right as you look directly out from the bunker. Skirt across the top of the crag leftwards as you look out until you come to a platform with a downclimb onto the ledge nearer sea level. Liberator Gully drops down on the right, and Hanois Cliff is a short walk northwest.

 

 

 

 

Below are links to topos of the climbs at Liberator Gully:

Topo A

Topo A

Topo B

Topo B

Routes on this crag

Sleepwalker  14m (46ft)

Start 20 feet left of the corner below an arc of pink rock. Climb the bulge, then easily to the top.

Dreams of Cream  14m (46ft)

6 feet to the right the bulge is split by a rightward trending crack. Climb direct.

Sour Kraut  18m (59ft)

The obvious corner just to the right.

Victory Vee 21m (69ft)

Start just right of the pool on a rounded boulder. Climb easily to an undercut corner. Make a hard well protected move into the corner, then continue…

Victory Vee Variation Finish 21m (69ft)

Near the top, move leftward into the corner to finish instead of going right.

Liberation Crack  21m (69ft)

Start to the right below a jammed boulder. Climb rightward to a vertical crack and follow this, moving leftward near the top.

Petit Surplomb 20m (66ft)

The corner and small roof to the right.

Directissima 20m (66ft)

Start as for Petit Surplomb, then take a direct line up the face between Liberation Crack and Petit Surplomb. Move rightward near the top to tackle the…

Prussian Blues 25m (82ft)

Start 25 feet right of the corner. Climb up a narrow inverted V cleft. Climb this (crux), then gain a ledge. Follow the groove above to gain…

UK Climbing details for Liberator Gully

Click here to view the UK Climbing page
liberator-gully