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South Coast - Herpin Rock Area Excalibur Buttress

Herpin Rock Area

Herpin Rock Area

How do I get there?

Carpark location

Carpark location

After parking by the bunker with the balanced roof in the photo above, head directly out from the bunker. Skirt rightwards until you come to some stakes to abseil into the crag, or continue right until a gully with a descent rope and some rock that resembles coco pops… Scramble down this gully and head left at the bottom until Excalibur Buttress comes into view.

 

 

 

 

Below are links to topos of the climbs at Excalibur Buttress:

Topo A

Topo A

Topo B

Topo B

Topo C

Topo C

Routes on this crag

Ashes to Ashes 20m (66ft)

Start 20 feet left of Salai at a thin crack above an undercut. Follow the crack for 40 feet, then move up and slightly right to a…

Salai 20m (66ft)

30 feet to the left of the large corner is a short corner. Climb this, trend leftwards to join a thin intermittent crack that continues leftward to…

Take the Stone 25m (82ft)

Stunning. High in the grade. Start as for Salai. Climb the short corner for 3 metres, move right beneath an overhang and reach a flake. Above is…

Pull Harder Still! 25m (82ft)

A pitch of mounting interest is extracted from the rib left of Excalibur. Protection is reasonable if a little spaced. Climb the corner of Excalibur for 7…

Incensed 25m (82ft)

Very hard and bouldery, and there’s a nervy finish too. Start 5 metres left of Excalibur beneath a vertical crack. Clip a peg (removed) in the crack;…

Guinevere 23m (75ft)

A direct and superior version of Cabochon. Climb the corner of Cabochon to the roof. Bridge over this to join the final groove of Cabochon.

Prospector 27m (89ft)

A forceful lead up the huge overhanging wall right of Excalibur. Surprisingly, jugs abound, and (with the pegs pre-placed) the protection is fine. Start 5 metres right…

Desecration 20m (66ft)

Move up on good jugs to a sloping ledge at 12 feet. Climb the corner above (remains of an old peg), then move right to a ledge…

Cabochon 26m (85ft)

A devious route with a touch of the DP’s. Climb the corner to the overhang, then move left 15 feet (crux). Move up and rightwards to gain…

Have Fun Going Blind 23m (75ft)

Start at the right hand end of the triangular quartz vein between Mercury and Icarus. Make precarious moves over the undercut, then trend up and slightly left…

Icarus 21m (69ft)

Climb a difficult overhanging start to gain a thin crack. Follow this, then continue up the wall to the left of the overhangs. A hold snapped off…

Icarus Variation 21m (69ft)

Take the overhangs right of Icarus.

Skin Flicks  15m (49ft)

Take a rising left to right traverse starting from the scar. Climb up and right following the slabby rock beneath a bulge. Gain the top right hand…

Fascination 12m (39ft)

Start 12 feet right again and climb up just left of a vague arête.

Laurel and Hardy  12m (39ft)

Start at the lowest point of the ledge below the cliff by two rock pools 10 feet right of E.P. Climb up just left of a crack,…

Conan the Vegetarian 12m (39ft)

Climb the steep corner/groove right of Broken Finger avoiding the final overhang by moving right.

Born to be a Barnacle ?? ??   

The first corner system.

Gollum’s Groove ? ??   

The second corner system.

Broken Finger 12m (39ft)

12 feet up and to the right is a wide crack with an open groove just to the left (this contains a triangular block). Climb the wall…

E.P.  15m (49ft)

Start 15 feet down and to the right just above the water filled inlet. Climb up a miniature chimney feature with a scar at its foot, then…

The Knights that say ‘Raad!’ 68m (223ft)

Gorgon 75m (246ft)

A R to L traverse of the cliff following the obvious break. Each pitch is harder than the last. Downclimb the nose to the south of Gorgon…

Mercury 23m (75ft)

Gain the arête just to the right (a dynamic leap for porgs) and climb directly to the top through an awkward roof.

Pagasus 23m (75ft)

Climb the thin crack 6 feet right of the corner. Continue to the top keeping right of the groove.

Excalibur 26m (85ft)

Climb the big corner; a sustained but well-protected line.

Sword in the Stone 24m (79ft)

An obvious challenge: the centre of the shield left of Excalibur. Some very hard moves low down lead to much easier, though run out climbing above. Start…

Salai, Direct Start 20m (66ft)

Climb the right hand edge of the slab between Ashes to Ashes and Salai to join Salai at the top of the corner.

Thriller 6m (20ft)

At the bottom of the approach path to Excalibur Buttress is a slightly overhanging wall. A short, but powerful route difficult to protect without a micro cam…

UK Climbing details for Excalibur Buttress

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